Vaapen

Lærdal

Norsk versjon


The Lærdal valley is located in the county of Sogn og Fjordane, western Norway. It winds from the Lærdal fjord, one of the inner arms of the Sognefjord, to the mountain passes of Fillefjell and Hemsedalsfjellet, on the water divide between Western and Eastern Norway. Total length is approximately 60 km from fjord to mountain. The valley is deeply incised in the surrounding mountain plateau, which varies in altitude between 1100 and 1900 m asl. Norwegian red deer abound in the valley sides, and reindeer in the mountains, and occasionally a brown bear strays through.

Lærdal has always been an important passage between eastern and western Norway, and presently highway E16 between Oslo and Lærdal runs through the valley. Lærdal is approximately halfway, 300 km from Oslo, 200 from Bergen.

Some vital statistics about the Lærdal valley and municipality:

Location: 61 deg N (same as Anchorage), 7 deg 30 E
Area: 1283 km2
Agricultural land: 12 km2
Population: 2249
Annual precipitation: 400 mm (valley floor)
Mean July temperature: 16.8 C
Main agricultural products: vegetables, sheep, milk

The community centre is Lærdalsøyri, by the fjord, with population 1000.

Ask a Norwegian about Lærdal, and he will probably mention three things: salmon, the Borgund stave church and the old roads. Recently, two new attractions have been added to the list: The longest road tunnel in the world (E16 from Lærdal to Aurland, 24.5 km, to opened 27 Nov 2000), and the Atlantic Salmon Centre at Lærdalsøyri, opened in 1996. Lærdalsøyri is worth seeing in its own right; a national monument site with 161 well preserved old wooden houses.

The population in Lærdal decreased from 3900 in 1855 to 2400 in 1920, due to emigration to America. Genealogists tracing their Lærdal roots will find some information here.

The weather in Lærdal just now:


Map:

Map by Microsoft Expedia Maps
Microsoft Expedia Maps

Salmon

Salmon jumping in the Sjurhaugfossen waterfall in the Lærdal river is a popular sight in the summer months. Sjurhaugfossen is 20 km upstream the river mouth at Lærdaløyri, and was earlier the final barrier for salmon migration. Three fish ladders build in connection with the hydropower development in the river has opened (at least in theory) an additional 20 km of salmon river. The Lærdal river has been a favourite angling river since the English "salmon lords" arrived here around 1850. What has made it popular is of course the sporting salmon (up to 25 kg) and seatrout (up to 10 kg), the crystal clear waters and the good fly fishing opportunities from the bank.

Salmon

Photo: NRS

Gyrodactylus Salaris attack

In the autumn of 1996 a heavy infection by the salmon parasite Gyrodactylus Salaris was discovered in the river. This is a killer that will decimate the salmon population to near or below sustainable level in a few years. The commonly used treatment is to remove the host, i.e. the salmon itself, and this is done by injecting the plant poison rotenon in the river. This will also kill the other fish species in the river, and is thus a very dramatic cure. The effect of the poison are shortlasting, it degrades quickly. Luckily a large part of the total salmon and sea trout stock is in the sea, and those fish are not infected by the parasite - it does not survive in seawater. The river will thus be restocked, both naturally and by breeding, but fishing will not be allowed for several years, while the population recover. A first rotenon treatment was made in April of 1997, the second and last was carried out in August.

In the autumn of 1997 salmon and sea trout was spawning in the river, and the next year salmon and sea trout was back. However, new infections by the parasites have been found, and new rotenon treatments are not viable. New methods for treating the infection are presently evaluated.



The Borgund Stave Church

The Borgund stave church is the best preserved of the 29 Norwegian stave churches - it stands more or less as it was when built in 1150. The Lærdal coat-of-arms (top) depicts the wooden dragonheads ornamenting the Spire. The name "stave" church comes from the wooden pillars that form the main supporting structure. The church is built without any metal; no nails nor bolts.

Borgund stave church

Photo: NRS




The Old Roads

The Sognefjord and Lærdal have always been an important route between East and West Norway, and many generations of roads witness this. King Olav Haraldsson "the Holy" travelled here in 1023, and left wealth of local legends, like the petrified troll "Jutlamannen" who dared to challenge the mighty king, and as a punishment stands 30 m high gazing blindly after the king. Another landmark is the pass "Olavsklemma" which shows marks where he pressed his horse through - partly destroyed by the German fortifications here during WWII. King Sverre Sigurdsson rode through the valley with his "birkebeiner" in 1177 - not to much blessing for the Lærdal people. But one of roads was constructed on his order - "Sverrestigen".

The old roads are easily accessible, and make perfect hiking and jogging trails. The best preserved are besides "Sverrestigen": "Galdane" in the narrowest part of the valley and "Kongevegen - the Royal Road" over Fillefjell, upgraded in 1793, "Vindhella" and "Sæltaåsen", from 1843.

The home pages of Lærdal Turlag (Lærdal Hiking Association) contains more information in the old roads and other hiking possiblities in Lærdal - in Norwegian only.

Galdane


The traveller and artist Johannes Flintoe came through Lærdal in 1845, and his etching from the road "Galdane" shows that the conditions were somewhat rough. The handwritten note says "Da staur inkje pau te' kom' unda!" - "No problem going downhill!", clearly a quote after his driver, rendered in the local dialect. The saying is still kind of a slogan for Lærdøler - the local breed.


Information for Genealogists

How to find Lærdal in the 1801 Census:

County: Sogn og Fjordane (Nordre Bergenhus Amt)
Parish (prestegjeld): 1422 Leirdahl
Subparishes (sogn):
Aardahl (presently Årdal Municipality)
Hauge, Tønium, Borgen (presently Lærdal Municipality)
Borgen subparish used to be the Borgund Municipality until 1964, when it was merged with Lærdal

In the digital version of the of the later censuses (1865 and 1900), the spelling is in accordance with present practise.

The local history is well documented in two "Bygdebøker":

Jon Laberg: Lærdal og Borgund
Publisher: AS Lunde & Co.'s Forlag, Bergen 1938
928 pp, in Norwegian

The new Bygdebok is more reliable and much more comprehensive, but does not yet cover all farms:

Alfred Espe, Kåre Hovland & Ola Gram: Lærdal Bygdebok, vols I-III
Publisher: Lærdal kommune, 1987 - 1994
749+580+648 pp, in Norwegian, with English introduction and explanations

The County Archives for Sogn og Fjordane have a lot of information on the emigration from Lærdal and the other municipalities in the county.

More genealogy links.


[Basic information about Lærdal (in Norwegian)]
[Travel info on Lærdal, Aurland and Flåm] [Tourist information about Lærdal] [Links and pictures from Lærdal]
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Last updated: 01 December 2000 by Nils Roar Sælthun
Adr: n.r.salthun@geofysikk.uio.no