I will make numerous references to this work, which I denote by DH. In all its detail, this book tells it all, but requires patience and work to penetrate. The introductory chapters are a gold mine of information about the Machin issues, and well worth the effort to study. And to the beginning student, do not despair at the apparent complexities of the Myall classification scheme. For the less ambitious collector, much of the gory detail of his level 3 can be ignored or simplified to suit your interests. In any case, no other work is as helpful and comprehensive in identifying the various varieties. Hopefully, further descriptions of my collecting methods can be of help.

The other useful catalogue is is "The Connoisseur Catalogue of Machin Stamps", edited by James Negus, (subtitle "Machins made intelligible"). They also issue a complete stamp album for Machin stamps. One place to order is from Vera Trinder Ltd., 38 Bedford Street, Strand, WC2E 9EU, UK. Phone +44 171 836 2365 or 8332, Fax +44 171 836 0873. My information here may be from a few years back, so the phone numbers should be checked. This catalogue is less detailed but may give a better overview. It also carries price information, which may be a pointer as to rarety (something sorely missing in the DH). As to catalogues, note further that the Stanley Gibbons Specialised catalogues may contain much useful information on the issues themselves, but is in my opinion, useless for identifying types and varieties.

UV-lamp: To be able to recognise phosphor bands and phosphor- and fluorescent papers is important for identifying Machin varieties, actually one of the main features. This is well explained in DH. Here it suffices to inform that a lamp emitting short-wave (or high energy) ultraviolet light is a neccessary tool for viewing the bands and papers. Note that this lamp (or the light source) is different from the long-wave (or low energy) uv-lamp needed for viewing most other luminescent European stamps, which also are usually fluorescent, that is light up only when the uv-light is on. The phosphorescent Machins are viewed by their afterglow, which can be seen for a short while after the light source is turned off. This means that it it necessary to work in the dark, and keep the eyes shut during illumination to keep them accomodated to darkness. Remember that uv-light is harmful to your eyes, and should never be viewed directly.

Note that bands come in a series of distinct types, the most common (sheets and booklets) are bands 9.5 mm wide across the perforation, leaving 2 bands on each stamp. Another common type is 1 center band, 4 mm wide. In some booklets 8 mm wide bands across the perforation are used, giving a 2 banded stamp with a slightly wider non-banded middle than the common 9.5 mm type. In addition, short band types, not reaching the perforated edge, notced bands and narrower types abound. These are throrougly described in the literature. When relevant I intend to refer to such bands when treating the types I try to identify for my collection.

There is one important working rule when collecting phosphorescent Machins from clippings: Whenever possible DO NOT SOAK OFF PAPER BEFORE IDENTIFICATION ! The water-soaking process somehow influences the phosphorescent chemicals and considerably weakens the effect, in my experience. Some band varieties are hard to identify, as well as being less common. This is particularly the case for the "short band" varieties (again referring to DH for a comprenhensive overview and classification.)

Slanting light: As most collectors observe, the phosphor bands can often be seen by the naked eye on the stamp surface. Particularly when viewed in slanting light, so that the light is reflected off the stamp surface, the bands turn up with different reflectivity from the non-banded part of the surface. For instance, this method is usually sufficient to identify the ph. varieties of the UK comemmoratives of the 60s, rarer than their non-ph. counterparts.

Slanting light reflection is also useful for identifying papers varieties. The 1968 and on pre-decimals were printed on a paper noted as OCP, Originally Coated Paper, as were the first series of decimals, from 1971 and for a short time. Another paper came into use later in 71, named FCP, Fluorescent Coated Paper. In principle it should be possible to distinguish these papers by their fluorescence, but I have found the best method again to use slanting light. The OCP stamps appear shiny, with the Queens head almost photo-negative. The FCP paper appears matte, without the effect. The pre-decimals can be used for OCP reference.

Slanting light is moreover useful for separating the two papers PCP1, which is again matte, and PCP2 which is shiny (and the paper normally appear stiffer and curl slightly), both from the early 80s.

And one paper PPP, used only for 1p, 2p, and 10p orange in 1979, is looking like abrasive paper in reflective light, reasonably easy to identify.

Slanting light is also the only method I know how to distinguish the various varnished and coated stamps, all done in an effort to preserve the stamp surface during handling.

You can easily identify a Machin collector by his reflective motion of lifting a stamp against the light.

Magnifier: A magnifier, at least x 10, preferrably with a built in lightsource, and extremely helpful, a built in ruler in mm or even smaller divisions, is a necessity for studying variations in value tablet positions. I have a flashlight type with a transparent ruler, handy for studying at your leisure. I also always keep spare bulbs and batteries, to avoid being lost in the middle of an exciting batch.

Information on head types:

Information on knife-cut edges (booklets and coils): To me, booklet information is essential for a number of identifying tasks. One of the strong points of the Myall methods in DH, is describing how stamp edges often are knife-cut during booklet and coil production. This shows normally up very well under the magnifier, were the regular cut edges of the stamp teeth can easily be identified. Depending on the location in the booklet, the top, right, bottom, left, one or two sides may be cut. Again, DH displays the stamp arrangement in all issued booklets, a great help in identification. Horizontal coils are cut top and bottom (normally), vertical coils left and right. The non-cut sides show up by the ragged edge of the torn teeth. Sheet stamps have four ragged edges, unfortunately also stamps from some larger booklet panes, notably from the Prestige booklets. Ragged teeth may also be found on booklet stamps normally knife-cut, but badly aligned so that a tear off strip remains beyond the teeth on one side, and has been pulled off. Thus the lack of a knife-cut edge is no total assurance that the stamp is from a sheet.